Lepcha land: or six weeks in the Sikhim himalayas-primary source edition / Florence Donaldson

CHAPTER 1.
CALCUITA TO SlLIGURl.
Planning a holiday—Where to go—^The bufTer state—Sikhim—
Preliminary arrangements—** Chhumbi" and **Tuko—Oft
at last—An amusing incident—Siliguri.
CHAPTER II.
SILIGURI.
The Terai—Baggage coolies—Toko's last swim—A tiger story—
The planter—A visit to a tea garden
CHAPTER III.
SlUGURI TO KAUJHORA.
Making a start—Seevok—A tiger jungle—The road to the Teesta
—A night at the ddk bungalow
CHAPTER IV.
KALIJHORA TO KALIMPONG.
Reaing Bustee—The valley of the Teesta—A halt—We climb
the hi.l to Kalimpong
CHAPTER V.
KALIMPONG.
Stiffness—Kalimpong—1 he inhabitants—The station—Women
workers—Tlie kazi—View of snow mountains from
Rinkinpong—Christian schools — A marriage—Lamas
blessing a new house
CHAPTER VI.
KALIMPONG—
Picnic at the Teesta—An afternoon visit—^Tibetan tea—Lepcha
dances—the Rilli—Market>day—Hill babies—Morning
service—Fetish-worshippers
CHAPTER VII.
KALIMPONG TO PAKYONG.
Coolie characteristics •—The Kalimpong Goompa — A fertile
valley—Rissoom woods - Our syces—The Kotal—Pedong
bungalow - A subaltern's room—The Plug—A steep hill—
The copper mines—The Belle of Pakyong
CHAPTER VIII.
PAKYONG TO SEDONGCHEN.
An early start—Rhenok Bazaar—Up hill and down dale—A
broken bridge—Rongli Chu rest-house—A midnight visitor
—Marital jealousy—A mountain torrent—.A waterfall—
Delicious water—Sikhim roads—A stiflT climb—Chhumbi's
birthplace—Sedongchen—A detachment of soldier^—Our
chota*haziree party
CHAPTER IX.
GNATONG.
Gnatong Fort—The dik bungalow—The effects of rariffed
atmosphere—Tne mess house—Headache and mountain
sickness—Bromhead Point—Kinchenjunga—The use of
dogs
CHAPTER X.
GNATONG TO LAGYAP-LA.
The road to the pass—Theleylap—A peep into Thibet-Our
camp at Kufu—Intense cold—^A Sikhim gorge—An awkward
situation —A stiff"climb—Moraines—A barren hill—Tiphu—
Camping in snow
CHAPTER XI.
TIPHU TO GUhTOK.
A frozen teitt—'* Robinson Crusoe " to the fore—Lake Tanitso—
The poisonous rhododendron—Yaks—^A precipitous descent
—The Roro Chu--A Bhootea's house—Leeches—A morn
ing lev^e—The Rajah's road—Guntok
CHAPTER XII.
GUNTOK TO RAMTEK.
The Intchi monastery—Lamas—The Rajah's palace—A young
disciple—The mess house—Ponies' troubles—Picmc to
Penlong-La~ Setting out again—Wayside seats—A bank of
beauty—A wii;e bridge—Ramtek Goompa—An improvised
bedchamber—Balustrade of prayer>wheels—The big wheel
—Bad news of the road—Tuko's strange behaviour
CHAPTER XIII.
KAMTEK TO LINGTSE.
A pugdandy—Scaling a rock—The landslip—How we crossed
I it—A Jacob's ladder-A wayside cascade—Martam—A
- ' Bhootea village - Work and laughter—The Rani's rest-
house—Teptook's writing—Tikobu—Lingtse—A Nepaulese
tamasha—Amenities of coolie life—An arrival—Developing
photographs—Travellers' postmen
CHAPTER XIV.
^LINGTSE TO SANGACHELLING.
Crossing the Teesta at Lingtse ferry, .'\dvantages of a small
pony—Orange trees—Rajah's road—Yangong Goompa—A
well-stocked lake—Repairing a hand-camera—A tree bridge
—Preparing our camp—Luxurious Nepaulis—^The Giezhing
Mendong — Chaits—Pemiongchi — A fern-bank — A rock
staircase—The deserted Goompa.
CHAPTER XV.
SANGACHEI.LING TO CHIAUHANJAN.
Scotch mist—Sunrise from Sangachelling—A hard case—Road
messages—A bamboo bridge—Dentam—A Bhootea rest-
house—A steep climb to Chiabhanjan
CHAPTER XVI.
CHIABHANJAN TO DARJEELING.
Camp food—Travelling southwards—.\n old crater—Panorama
of snow mountains—Singalela—Phullut—A view of Mount
Everest—Broad roads again—Sandakhu rest-house-Silver
firs—Tanglu—Above the clouds—A bag of letters and
newspapers— Arrival at Darjeeling